1. What is the difference between individual lashes, pre-made fans, and express eyelash extensions?
Individual eyelash extensions are designed to be applied on each natural lash, whether you use 1:1 or XD technique (several ultra-fine lashes on one natural lash). These are available with each Individual lash on a tape in a tray, or loose single lashes in a jar. Normally these lashes are not pre-glued, but recently there is a trend to have several layers of fine lashes pre-glued so it’s easier for the lash technician to pick up and apply on each natural lash.
XD Fans (Pre-made Volume Fans) is a cluster of ultra-fine lashes that have been pre-glued at the root and curled outwards in a fan effect. This allows the fan to then easily be applied to each eyelash, thereby quickly and effectively increasing the volume of the eyelash. Our XD Fans have a very thin base (less than 1mm) which is invisible. If the base was too long, it would create gaps on the lash line and have extra weight which would damage the client’s natural lashes.
Cluster Lashes (EyeEnvy Express Lash Extensions) are made from the same material as professional eyelash extensions (PBT material) and have a natural tip on each lash. Made slightly different to the XD Fans, the bottom of each cluster has been shaped & cut to form a flat shape. The cluster should be placed on to several natural lashes with a weaker glue (express) which is designed for express lashes. These lashes will need to be removed within 2 weeks to prevent ingrown hairs.
You may have seen another range of cluster lashes selling in supermarkets which have no tip on each lash and are applied using a latex/acrylic glue. These lashes are less realistic looking, with no resistance to humidity or heat and will only last 1-2 days.
There are many types of individual eyelash extensions. The shape of the individual lash extensions will differ depending on the fibres used to make the lash. Over the past 10 years LashArt have transformed all popular fibre types into different lash products catering for all customers preferences, and offering a range of shapes to make application easier for all.
Round is the original and most popular shape for lash extensions, for which we have developed WonderLash Premium Mink/Silk Lashes. We are the first company to develop Flat Cashmere Lashes which is the lightest lash on the market and available in 3 different finishes. Star lashes were introduced in 2016 as the shape is perfect for volume lashing, no matter what method you are using. Square and Oval were introduced in 2017 as the premium product line of WonderLash, both shapes improve lash retention by 30%.
These lashes have slightly different tips. The ‘long’ one has been named ‘Mink’ and the ‘medium/short’ one has been named ‘Silk’, depending on the preference of different lash companies. Here at LashArt we are dedicated to improving our lashes in line with new trends and technology. Our new project has been launched to put ‘Laser Cut’ on the bottom of the lash to further extend the lash retention period. The new lash will be grouped together with Oval Cut and Princess Cut to form the ‘Diamond Series’ for our ever popular WonderLash brand.
It is difficult to answer this question as each product has their own unique design and everyone has their own preference. This will also depend on the desired finished look.
We have formed the list below to show the difference in the weight of each lash.
When considering the weight of a lash, remember a 0.25 mink lash will weigh more than a 0.15 mink lash.
Generally speaking, a client’s natural lash can only take a maximum of 1.5 times the weight of the lash. It is recommended you use the table above as a reference and choose a lash no thicker than 1.2 times and no longer than 1.3 times the client’s natural lash.
Unlike cluster lashes and strip lashes, individual eyelash extensions have a specific curl to match your client’s natural lash. It is recommended that you choose a curl that is one size curlier than your client’s natural lashes to liven up their lashes. If your client has natural B curl lashes, C curl extensions would be recommended to maximise the bonding area and give a naturally curlier look. Choosing the wrong curl may create problems such as the bonding area being too small or the base may lift causing a gap at the client’s natural lash base.
Different companies/brands have different curl systems so one company’s C curl could be the same as another company’s D curl. If you get used to the curl system of one brand it is very difficult to change to another one. You will need to compare the curl carefully with the same thickness, length and curl to find the perfect match.
For beginners, we recommend starting with a J/B curl. B gives a natural look while C gives an open eye look which makes it the most popular curl. D curl is for clients who have dramatically curled natural lashes. You can mix 2 different curls to make a double layer effect. There are 2 curls which exist but are seldom used which is L and U curl. Both have a straight base but U is curled more than L. These 2 types are only for Asian clients who have naturally straight lashes that point down.
There are a lot of factors to consider when answering this question, such as lash type, client’s natural lash and aftercare. For this description, we will assume your client has 0.20mm lashes and only compare the total weight of volume lashes with a single 0.20mm lash.
From the diagram above you can see 2D 0.12 fans, 3D 0.10 fans and 7D 0.07 fans are all slightly lighter than the standard 0.20mm round shape lash. The 9D 0.05 fan is significantly less than the standard 0.20 round shape lash.
It is important for your client’s health and safety to plan the quantity of lashes carefully when creating the clients desired look, keeping in mind the weight of the natural lash. We have formed the list below in weight sequence to help you decide which lasheswould be best to use.
Every lash artist has their own preference when defining ‘best’ – the fume, the lash longevity or the curing speed. In LashArt we have developed a full series of adhesives as we believe every lash artist should have several different adhesives to suit different clients and applications.
Among all features of eyelash extension glue, curing speed is what our customer are concerned about the most. We have added the diagram below to illustrate each glue’s cure speed without any pre-treatment, in the same humidity and temperature.
You can compare the other features of our glues in the diagram below.
The ‘irritation’ is measured purely by the glue’s fumes. A customer can react to any ingredient of a fume free glue so a patch test is necessary.
The glue’s curing speed can be influenced by 2 main factors: pre-treatment and humidity.
A good pre-treatment will have a lot of benefit to curing speed and lash longevity. Imagine you were trying to bond together 2 pieces of plastic, you would need to clean both surfaces before fixing them. Lash Extensions are made of PBT material which is hard to bond by using cyanoacrylate alone. An accelerator will greatly reduce the surface energy and increase the quality of the bonding agent. Alcohol and Alkaline chemical is always to be used as primer and accelerator for the eyelash extension glue. Time must be allowed for the solvent carrier to flash off the substrate (typically < 1 min) prior to applying the adhesive.
Lash Sanitizer – sterilise lash extensions before use, with accelerator added
For Client’s natural lashes:
FairyFix Lash Primer – cleans natural lash, with accelerator added
Magic Wand - accelerator
Glue Cure Speed after Pre-treatment
Eyelash Extension glue is 80% Cyanoacrylate, which cures with even the slightest amount of moisture. According to Wikipedia: “In general, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of water (specifically hydroxide ions), forming long, strong chains, joining the bonded surfaces together. As the presence of moisture causes the glue to set, exposure to normal levels of humidity in the air causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which greatly slows the reaction. Because of this cyanoacrylate is applied thinly, to ensure that the reaction proceeds rapidly and a strong bond is formed within a reasonable time.”
There are three main types:
- Ethyl: Fast curing, strong strength sometimes with strong fumes.
- Ethoaxyethyl: Slow curing, no fumes and ideal for sensitive clients.
- Butyl: Weak fumes and a slower curing rate.
Except the main ingredient, eyelash extension glue has been carefully formulated with a balance thickener, pigment stabiliser and accelerator.
Cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of moisture, forming long, strong chains joining the bonded surfaces together.
We recommend keeping the humidity between 45% - 60%, temperature between 20°C - 25 °C
The higher the humidity is (e.g. in a room) the faster the product cures.
If your humidity is too high the eyelash adhesive will not cure correctly and shock polymerization takes places. This results in a weaker bond with the natural lash.
If humidity is too low then the curing time will be slower as there is not enough moisture to 'cure' the eyelash adhesive and again your client will have poor retention with the adhesive becoming hard and stiff. (a so-called shock polymerization) The latter provokes a shrinking process of the adhesive layer, which leads to less bond strength.
All eyelash extension glue has ‘Fixture Time’ and ‘Cure Time’. An adhesive has “Fixed” when the bond is strong enough to be handled without compromising the long-term strength of the adhesive. For lash extension glue this time is usually within seconds at room temperature and achieves full strength in 24 hours.
It is important to keep a consistent humidity level in any extensions studio to control the glue curing time. The humidity in the room can change during seasons, the humidity will be low in the winter when the heating is on. Humidifiers and de-humidifiers can aid in regulating the humidity, which should be set between 45-60% Relative Humidity. This will give the optimum curing time for applying the lash. With too much moisture in the air, the glue may cure too quickly which will cause the glue to turn too sticky too quickly and become difficult to manipulate into place. Similarly, if the air is too dry, the adhesive will take too long to cure, which may cause the lash to slip out of place before setting.
To monitor your humidity levels, we would recommend that you purchase a hygrometer which measures the humidity/moisture in your treatment room.
If the humidity is too high, you can control this by opening your windows or purchasing a de-humidifier which can lower the humidity. Alternatively, you can turn on the heating or a fan heater. A slower drying eyelash adhesive may also be considered.
If the humidity is too low, you will need a humidifier. This works by releasing water vapour into the air to increase humidity. This is ideal when you have the heating on and when the air can be dry. You can also consider plants and nano-mister. Alternatively, consider a faster drying eyelash adhesive.
Though normal Cyanoacrylate Glue can be stored for approximately 2 years, eyelash extension glue is different. They have a rather short shelf life (Normally 6-9 month) and it is recommended to use it within 1 month of opening. Upmost care needs to be taken to extend the life of eyelash extension glue.
Lash adhesives should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place, away from other products. The perfect storage solution is a wide mouthed vacuum flask. When storing the glue in the preserving pack provided please keep the silica gel sachet in the bag, remove all air then seal well. Where possible store the glue in the fridge/freezer and ensure the preserving pack is stood upwards. Remove from the fridge/freezer and allow the bottle to thaw at room temperature for 24 hours before use.
Shake vigorously before the first use.
Do not refrigerate/refreeze after thawing.
After using the lash adhesive, squeeze any excess adhesive from the nozzle into a lint free wipe to avoid clogging and clean the nozzle well to ensure no build up occurs that may prevent the cap from being properly sealed. Store the lash adhesive along with silica gel sachets in the preserving pack, squeezing any air out before resealing the pack. You may consider wrapping the preserving pack, or storing in a sealable glass jar with more silica gel sachets, ensuring the preserving pack is standing. It is recommended to store in a cool, dry place and out of direct sunlight. Repeat after each use.