Q: Why is the glue not drying fast enough/drying too fast?
A: The Eyelash Extension glue is 80% Cyanoacrylate, which cures with even the slightest amount of moisture. It is important to keep a consistent humidity level in any extensions studio in order to control the time that the glue takes to cure. Humidifiers and de-humidifiers can aid in regulating the humidity, which should be set between 45-55% Relative Humidity. This will give the optimum curing time for applying the lash. With too much moisture in the air, the glue may cure too quickly which will cause the glue to turn too sticky too quickly and becoming difficult to manipulate into place. Similarly, if the air is too dry, the adhesive will take to long to cure, which may cause the lash to slip out of place before setting.
It is recommended to use primer as a pre-treatment for some adhesives. The primer not only cleans natural lashes, but can also speed up the adhesive's curing process. In fact, all LashArt primers have been designed to optimise the curing speed of LashArt adhesives.
A: You may need to check a few factors:
You may need to clean the client's natural lashes with primer before application. The use of FairyFix Lash Primer will extend the eyelash retention period, effectively cleansing natural lashes and residual oils, sebum and build-up of makeup. This will give the ideal preparation for optimum bonding of semi-permanent eyelash extensions. FairyFix Eyelash Primer has also been designed to speed up the curing of eyelash extension glue.
It is also recommended to use 'extended lash cleanser' to pre-treat the extended lashes. Despite every effort being made to sterilise lash products before they are released to market, there is a risk that extended lashes can collect dust and dirt, given the hand-crafted manufacturing process, and also particularly during lengthy storage periods. This can lead to certain complications including bacteria growth and risk of eye infections when applying the Lash to the client's natural eyelash, even when the client's eyelash has been appropriately pre-treated. For this purpose, we have designed a revolutionary pre-treatment product that can easily sterilize the extended lashes and the ideal bonding surface by completely removing the remaining glue (transferred from tape), dust and oil on extended synthetic lashes. This remarkable product also dramatically improves the drying speed of eyelash extension adhesive, which results in a much efficient application process.
Ideally both surfaces (the client's natural lashes and the eyelash extensions) can be cleaned to create the perfect bonding surface to optimize glue's bonding power.
2. Glue Storage
Though normal Cyanoacrylate Glue can be stored for approximately 2 years, eyelash extension glue is different. They have a rather short shelf life (Normally 6-9 months) and it is recommended to use it within 1 month after opening. Utmost care needs to be taken to extend the life of eyelash extension glue, and not renewing the adhesive within the recommended time period will result in the product weakening, causing the lash to fall off quickly.
Store the glue together with the silica gel sachets, squeezing out any air then sealing the preserving pack. Keep the glue in the fridge/freezer and ensure the preserving pack is stood upwards at all times. To Use: Remove from the fridge/freezer and allow the bottle to thaw at room temperature for 24 hours before opening. Shake well before the first use.
Do not refrigerate/refreeze after thawing.
After the First Use.
After dispensing the lash adhesive, squeeze any excess adhesive left in the nozzle into a lint free wipe to avoid clogging. Clean the nozzle with a lint free wipe after each use, wiping the outside of the nozzle to ensure no build up occurs that may prevent the cap from being properly sealed. Store the lash adhesive along with silica gel sachets in the preserving pack, squeezing any air out before resealing the pack. You can furthermore wrap the preserving, or store the preserving pack in a sealable glass jar along with more silica gel sachets. Keep the preserving pack standing at all times. It is recommended that the preserving pack is stored in a cool, dry place and out of direct sunlight. Repeat after each usage.
3. Application Errors.
Poor technique and errors in application will affect the duration of the lash retention, commonly occurring either due to tiredness or rushing the application process. Though different training schools may recommend different methods, below is a checklist of causes poor application.
3.1 Choosing the wrong donor lash.
Choosing the correct natural lash (also known as donor lash) to apply the lash extension to will result in longer-lasting lash extensions. A mature natural lash will soon fall out, meaning they do not have a long lifespan when used for lash extensions. Premature natural lashes, however, are too fine to support the weight of a lash extension, and the extra weight of the extension would, again, cause the lash to fall out prematurely.
3.2 Choosing the incorrect product for the natural lashes.
It is recommended that you only ever extend up to twice the length of the customer's own natural lash; any longer than this will be too heavy for the natural lash, causing it to fall out prematurely. It is always good practise to match as near as possible, the thickness of the extended lash to that of the customer's own natural lash.
Glue cured too quickly, or too slowly.
Too many strokes during application, causing the glue to cure before lash has attached properly.
Not applying the lash fast enough so the adhesive cures before application and doesn't bond correctly.
Extension has not been ideally positioned.
This is the most common issue among inexperienced artists. Here, the root of the extended Lash has lifted away from the natural lashes. It may look like the lash has been applied correctly, as the tips of both the natural lash and the extended lash are connected, but with regular washing and daily use, the lash will drop off within a matter of days.
Here, the extended lash is only partially attached at two points. This is a common symptom of the extended lash being applied too hurriedly, meaning the glue has not been given sufficient time to cure properly. This fault is commonly due to tiredness and lack of focus.
Here, the bonding area between the extended lash and the natural lash is too small. This is commonly due to nothing more than poor technique, and can be improved with practise.
Insufficient glue has been used here, meaning the lashes have not connected all the way from the root to the tip. This is a common fault across the board, among the experienced and inexperienced alike.
Here, too much glue has been applied to the lashes. This is commonly due to the mistaken belief that more glue will cause the lashes to remain attached for longer. In fact, the glue will become very brittle and crack very soon after application, causing the lash to drop off. This will not only give the lashes a very poor appearance, but can also risk damaging the customer's eyelids.
Ideal J curl lash bonding.
Ideal C curl lash bonding.
Good aftercare advice is essential for both you and your customer. It should always first be given verbally to your client following their first appointment with you, but it can also be useful provide it in written form so they can refer back to it if necessary. If the customer has had eyelash extension treatments elsewhere, do not assume that they have been provided with aftercare advice; always presume that they know nothing and give your advice from there. You should always advise them to do the following:
During the first 24 hours:
Do not get your lashes wet; even steam from the shower can affect the quality of the extensions.
Do not wash your lashes with hot water or steam. Avoid swimming, saunas, steam rooms and jacuzzis. If you have a bath or a shower, avoid doing so with water that is too hot, and take take great care to ensure the water is kept away from the face.
After 48 hours:
Do not try to curl the lashes; if you try, you will snap the extensions and break your natural lashes.
Do not rub, stroke or pick your lashes.
Your customer should not undertake any chemical lash service whilst wearing extensions, such as perming or tinting.
If necessary, only apply water-soluble (or oil-free) mascara and eye make-up remover.
Keep any oil-based products away from your extensions.
Allow your customer to take the clean mascara wand that you have been using away with them, so that they can use it at home when they need to.
If your client experiences any itching or irritation to their eyes or lashes they should return to the studio quickly for removal of the extensions. They should not attempt removal themselves.
5. Natural eyelash cycle.
This is the length of time any given eyelash takes to fall out. This is one issue that cannot be resolved; no matter how well the extended lash is applied, if a customer's natural lash is at the end of its cycle, then both it and the extended lash. It is worth explaining the cycle to your client as it can answer some of their concerns.
Hair grows in cycles, and each cycle has three phases ? growth (anagen), transition (catagen) and resting (telogen). Hair only grows during the first phase and then it transitions and 'rests' until it falls out. The duration of each phases differs depending on hair's location on the body; for example, hair on your head has a much longer growth phase than your eyelashes do, which is why the hair on your head can grow to great lengths, while your eyelashes grow only a relatively short length. Once your eyelashes stop growing, they transition to the resting phase where they remain until falling out. While the eyelash is resting, the growth cycle starts again from the same follicle and a new eyelash pushes the old one out. The cycle is specific to each individual follicle, however, so some of your eyelashes will be growing while others are resting. This means that eyelashes are continually falling out, causing gaps to appear after time. We therefore recommend each customer comes in for in-fills every 2-4 weeks to prolong the quality of the effect of the lashes. Some customers, however, may have a faster growth cycle, meaning they will require in-fill appointments more frequently.
A: Yes, all clients must be patch tested for eyelash extensions treatment with NO exceptions. It is advised that this be done as early as possible, for instance when your customer books their appointment. Some companies openly advertise the fact that they do not conduct patch testing, using it as a selling point to do their training course and buy their products. We cannot emphasise highly enough the importance adhering to the stipulations of your insurance provider, over the word of a trainer, a sales company or anything you may read online. While you are patch testing, you can check with the customer for contraindications, which could save you both a wasted appointment.
It may be considered good practice to conduct a full client consultation at the patch testing stage. This way, the consultation form can be completed and the tests carried out all in good time, so that you know precisely which services may be offered to the customer on the day. It is recommended, however, that the artist remains vigilant in looking for further contraindications during the treatment itself.
A: Nearly all training schools suggest customers should avoid coming into contact with ANY moisture during the first 48 hours of a lash application, including the likes of showers, saunas, and even sweat. Getting the bond wet too soon after application causes shock polymerisation, which can cause the bond to become very brittle and crack easily. This can also cause "blooming", where a white/grey dust-like substance forms on the lashes. By avoiding excessive moisture for 48 hours after application, the customer ensures a slow, controlled, layered cure using only the moisture in the air, resulting in a perfectly strong bond.
A: The Nano mister introduces the perfect amount of moisture to force-cure the lash adhesive in a controlled manner without adversely affecting the integrity of the bond. Using the Nano Mister means that customers only need to wait 4 hours before washing their faces, showering, or going to the gym.
Fill Nano Mister with distilled water droplets and spray the super-fine mist over the newly applied lash extensions. The aim is not to soak the lashes or shock the bonds, but instead to deliver a gentle amount of moisture around the lashing area to provide the bond with precisely the correct amount of moisture in 30 seconds to fully cure layer by layer.
This method has a number of advantages:
While curing, the adhesive produces fumes even 48 hours after application. The Nano Mister greatly reduces these emissions by fully curing the adhesive in 30 seconds.
Reduced inconvenience to the customer's daily routine, as they can shower and exercise only 4 hours after their appointment.
This is a very soothing treatment at the end of the appointment.
The customer can optimise lash hygiene by being able to wash their lash line daily with LashPure cleanser.
A: This is a topic that always causes arguments amongst trainers, technicians and lash companies alike. Historically, training companies and suppliers have offered conflicting advice, with some saying that the extension application process may adversely affect a woman's pregnancy, and others saying that no proof or evidence has been found at all to suggest this. The simple truth is that, during pregnancy, a woman's body changes in many so ways that something to which they may have been tolerant all their life may start affecting them in pregnancy.
A more direct issue is the additional weight from the unborn child causing pain for the woman while she is lying on her back during a 1- 2 hour appointment. Again, in spite of any advice given to you, the stipulations of your insurance provider must be carefully adhered to, and it is your own responsibility to check and work in accordance with their policies.
A reliable source of advice for all matters relating to the risks to pregnant women of drugs and toxic chemicals can be found with the UK Teratology Information Service (UKTIS). Below is a quote from the UKTIS website:
"Cyanoacrylates are mainly used as adhesives domestically and also in a wide range of industrial environments such as plastics, electronics, scientific instruments, manicuring, dentistry and surgery. No published data on the possible adverse effects of Cyanoacrylates on human reproductive function or in human pregnancy and lactation have been found.
As with all chemicals, unnecessary exposure to Cyanoacrylates should be avoided. However, where occupational exposure is unavoidable then precautions should be taken to ensure that exposure is well within the recommended exposure limits and not associated with toxic symptoms. Data following acute exposure are limited, however in the absence of maternal toxicity the risk of foetal toxicity appears to be no greater than those for the general population.
Inadvertent exposure to Cyanoacrylates at any stage of pregnancy would not usually be regarded as medical grounds for termination of pregnancy or any additional foetal monitoring.
If you are pregnant and require advice regarding exposure to Cyanoacrylates please contact your health care professional who can contact UKTIS on your behalf.
If you have a patient (client) with exposure to Cyanoacrylates and require assistance in making a patient- specific risk assessment, please telephone UKTIS on 0844 892 0909 to discuss the case with a teratology specialist."
Seek medical advice from a healthcare professional before using Cyanoacrylates on a daily basis.
A: Approximately 5% of Lash technicians will develop an allergy to the adhesives they use, and particularly to Cyanoacrylate as it is the most common chemical found in the industry. In a similar fashion to X-Ray radiographers, Lash technicians are more at risk of developing symptoms than their customers because the allergy is developed only during prolonged exposure (unless the technician already harbours a particular sensitivity to the chemical).
As in most cases, taking preventative action is much more effective than treating symptoms. Use of a mask, keeping the room well ventilated and avoiding touching your face during or immediately after the application process effectively help in reducing the risk of developing an allergy. Other than these measures, it is good practise to improve your immune system by ensuring you regulate your vitamin intake. If you are particularly susceptible to allergies or infections, it may be because your body's nutritional intake is unbalanced. Eating healthily, particularly fruit and vegetables, will greatly improve your vitamin intake and your immune system.
Consult your doctor before using this information.